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Fishing oz style > Chat > Boating Talk
Jumpus GooDarus
Allready mentioned it in one off the threads think it was kkw's report

Dont feel like typing it over again so I'll just quote what I said in that thread.

QUOTE
Well the day didn't finish so crash hot peeps.

Whilst winching the boat up back @ the ramp I noticed the winch strap was a bit frayed where it was sown onto the hook but couldn't see it being a prob for the drive home.

Well wasn't that a mistake when I dropped kk off everything seemed ok but between kk's place & home the hook wore through the strap crappy roads & all those speed humps wouldn't have helped the cause.

Anyways the safety chain did it's job but it had a bit of play so all the up & down movement played havoc on the winch post fatigueing the welds & I recon it was the last hump B4 entering home base that did the final damage.

Winch post sheared off the trailor & if it wasn't for the strap that I use on trips to tie down the back of the boat the boat would've ended up going through my tailgate.

Was dark by this stage & I'll have a look @ in the morn.


QUOTE
kk not just the winch strap but the whole winch post sheared off the trailer when I looked @ it last night the boat had slid forward on the trailer by about 2 feet thats why I said I was lucky the boat didn't go through the tailgate been a bit lazy & sore this morn to go over & have a good look @ it.


Took a few pics today & will have to get motivated during the week to do the repairs



kkw
OUCH!!!!.
jasonb
your lucky mate ,,,all the trailers ive made i always weld a support on the bottom of the winch post to about half way up ,just to stop that sort of thing ,,,,nice boat
Jumpus GooDarus
jason the trailer was built very well.

My fault for trusting that frayed strap B4 leaving Greenwell Pt I should've known better.

I didn't tighten the strap to tight cause of the fraying which in turn allowed the boat to bounce & once that happened the strap broke.

Then all the up & down force was on the saftey chain which had enough play in it to rock the post to the point of shearing.
Christos
That is lucky that this did not go flying.
jasonb
is that one you made jumpy lolol
Jumpus GooDarus
QUOTE (jasonb @ Jan 28 2008, 09:55 PM) *
is that one you made jumpy lolol



Yep it was the stainless steel one laugh.gif laugh.gif

Dont think to many peeps would realise allthough S/S is harder to drill cut etc the metal itself is softer than mild steel.

That's why I used 3 mm instead of what is used in alot of steel trailer of the same size 2 - 2.5 mm
TomMc
Jump, ive learned a lesson from your mistake...
on the big boat the strap goes on the pod but thinking of it now if the same problem happend to us it would of went through the tail gate, your strap is in the rail so it would be limited to movement..
im goin to tell dad about this one...
Jumpus GooDarus
QUOTE (TomMc @ Jan 28 2008, 10:32 PM) *
Jump, ive learned a lesson from your mistake...
on the big boat the strap goes on the pod but thinking of it now if the same problem happend to us it would of went through the tail gate, your strap is in the rail so it would be limited to movement..
im goin to tell dad about this one...



Yep Yep Tom

If you're going to tow over a fair distance a strap over the transom area is a must for a few reasons.

Stops the arse of the boat from bouncing
Which in turn wont allow the motors weight to work up & down on the transom
The motor weight stays constant with the transom.

When using a rear strap allways make sure you relieve the tension when you journey has ended irrellevant what material type your boat is.

When towing in Sydney I dont bother with a rear strap cause I'm very close to the boat ramp but I allways use a safety chain.
Fed
Lucky you were only driving a Nissan there Jumpy a good car would have ripped it out on the first day.
Seriously, do you drive it hard?
Did you put your glasses on and have a very close look at the welding?
It might be better to weld the post c/w new brace to a plate then use U Bolts after you fix the frame.
I'd be looking at how the tow hitch is going too, two skinny bolts inline hardly seems enough after seeing the way that frame ripped open.
I'm using 2 tie down straps with hooks on each end, one to each corner bollard then hooked to the trailer.
Spudly
I think its telling you to sell your boat to me!
jasonb
i would have an outboard leg support on there as well i wouldnt be putting weight that doesnt need to be on the trim and tilt all the time that way it should last longer and should take a bit of weight off the transom as well
TomMc
Jump, your back rollar is red?
i dont know if it takes any weight or not but i heard blue is for alloy boats and red is for fibre glass and wood boats...
nimrod
With a bit more experience in trailer manufacturing you will learn of the pressure points of a trailer.
This is the next one you should be aware of.




Frank
Jumpus GooDarus
QUOTE (TomMc @ Jan 29 2008, 01:16 PM) *
Jump, your back rollar is red?
i dont know if it takes any weight or not but i heard blue is for alloy boats and red is for fibre glass and wood boats...



Tom that roller does nothing exwpt cushion the V of the boat if I decide to drive it on that's all it does dosen't take any weight @ all & only reason I even used a roller there was that would rotate & not wear opposed to a skid.

Fed the damage was caused by the boat bouncing up & down on a loose saftey chain which in turn Fatigued the S/S if you notice the nice clean split in the draw bar, well thats where the extrusion was seam welded all you need is a start point then the rest of the assembly will give way & thats what happened.

As per in Franks pic the weld alone can & will give way unless you sandwich with gussets, I did weld on gussets to every other welded join on the trailer exept the winch post it's an easy repair & I was fortunate that no other damage occured to boat or car.
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