Tips And Tricks Back To Basics . Trailer Bearings Options

[hustler57]

trailer bearings, prob the most important part of ones trailer but i would have to say the most over looked regular servicing,

how does some 1 change trailer bearings ??

what are the step by step instructions ?

[salty fil]

Very good point Hustler.
Over the years when driving up to QLD i see many boat trailers on the side of the road with busted bearings.
I keep a new pair of them in my glovebox for emergency, even though i have no idea on how to change them.
Il cross that bridge when i come to it....

Before i took off to QLD on Xmas day i had my bearings serviced for $50, now that im back il have them done again.
When i get a chance il learn how to do it myself cause it would be a good skill to know.

I counted 5 trailers on the return trip just recently that had the problem.

Definately something that is overlooked...

[Jumpus GooDarus]

Bearings are easy 2 du, just not in the mood to type up how 2 du right now

now that im back il have them done again.

Shouldn't have to unless ewe got a jelly bean caught in there

Only thing that suffs them up is lack off or not using hig temp grease play in weel in no good either

[salty fil]

Bearings are easy 2 du, just not in the mood to type up how 2 du right now



Shouldn't have to unless ewe got a jelly bean caught in there

Only thing that suffs them up is lack off or not using hig temp grease play in weel in no good either

The thing is that i done almost 2500 kms since the service and theres grease all over the wheels from it spitting out the bearings.
Ive got 33" tyres on the hilux, and the trailers ones are heaps smaller. Imagine how quick those little buggers were turning while the car was doing 100 - 110 kmh.
Il wait till you post up the 'how to'....

[nimrod]

I won't give instructions how to change or maintain bearings at this point but will point out
what NOT to do to help prolong the life of a bearing.
Firstly if you have bearing mates/buddies or whatever you want to call them, do not over fill them.
Pump them up until you get the plate to start moving forward and stop pumping, if you fill
them all the way and the plate is all the way forward, when the grease heats up and expands it will
blow the rear seal and grease will be everywhere, and next time you put the wheels in the water to launch
it will let water into the bearing housing.
Never be in a hurry to launch if you have driven any distance over about 10 k's to get to the ramp, stop
and do the usual things like unhitching tie downs putting bungs in etc, allow the bearings to
cool down somewhat before launching.
If you dunk hot bearings in cold water they quench off very quickly and can effect the hard casing of the
bearings which in turn will ruin them.
If you have a trailer that don't get used all that often move it around from spot to spot or jack the mass weight
off the wheels. A trailer that is left for say 6 months or more can develop flat spots on the bearings ( believe it or not ).
Always have the tyres at the correct pressure ( check when cold not hot ) cause under inflated tyres get hotter
then they should and the added heat that the tyre is putting out will also heat the hub and with it the bearings.
Use only proper high melting point wheel bearing grease ( doesn't matter if it's green red brown or yellow ) as
long as it is a good product designed for wheel bearings.

[Spudly]

Wrote a full list of the basic steps out before but it didnt post...

Just keep in mind that trailers can differ, depending on brakes (disc ,drum or none) and type of hub assembaly..

Most small boats use old ford or holden hub and bearings which are simple to change.. If you got brakes then a fwe extra steps may be involved.. Might write it out again later, but like the jumpy one said..

They need to be tightened so there is no play but NOT overtightened.. Either way will ruin the bearings.

They Need to be greased (again, not too much) and with the right grease. because trailer bearing are not sealed as well as say a 4x4 bearing dirt/sand etc can sneak in and will not help the bearings at all..

Its also a good idea not to back your bearings into the water if possable. Hot bearings and cold water do not mix. A Vaccum is formed and salt water is drawn into the hub. (Same thing happens with a 4x4 doing river crossings or mud when the mud or water is drawn through seals into bearings and the diffs) Dont think i need to explain why this is BAD!

Here is a good link on how to do it... Saves me typing it up again and alot more info!!

http://www.mcclaintrailers.com/bearing_maintenance.pdf

[Fed]

There's 2 types of bearing setups Hustler, let's call them the GOOD type and the BAD type to keep it simple.

Below is a picture of the GOOD type.
 IMG_0014_opt.jpg ( 22.75K ) Number of downloads: 9

Working from right to left you will see the following components.

1 The square axle.
2 The seal.
3 The stainless steel insert that is pressed into the hub. (you will have to look carefully because only its lip is visible)
4 The hub.

With this setup the seal is a tight fit on the axle and DOES NOT rotate and the sealing is done between the outer circumference of the seal and the stainless steel insert in the hub.

I don't have a picture of the BAD type so the best I can to is describe it.
With the BAD type the seal is a tight fit into the hub and DOES rotate with the hub and the sealing is done between the inner circumference and the axle.

What type of setup do you have?
An easy way to find out is to jack up a wheel, spin the wheel and see if the seal spins with the hub or remains stationary.

If you want to do it right all this is important and if you do it right you will NEVER have to do it again.

I prefer the GOOD type because when you install them you get a brand new stainless steel running surface as opposed to the BAD type where the seal runs on the axle which is usually scored from years of use.
It's also very hard to blow out the GOOD type seals with bearing buddies because they rest up against the square shoulder of the axle.
A HINT: Don't believe everything you read on the net, there are a lot of myths out there.

[Fed]

Just saw the link that Rumpus put up, this is the BAD type shown in the pics.

[Jumpus GooDarus]

The thing is that i done almost 2500 kms since the service .

2500 klm's is trivial milage cause ewe were towing in a straight line, you've seen wot a bitch it is for me down the bottom of the street that sort of pressure on my wheels is wot causes bearings to wear.

and theres grease all over the wheels from it spitting out the bearings

Sounds to me like the person who changed them for ewe didn't use the marine seals back on t5he axle & the grease seeped out of those shitty rubber wuns, the marine seals have a meal hub[think that's wot it's called] anyway this hub thingamajiggy keeps the seal composed.

Firstly if you have bearing mates/buddies or whatever you want to call them

Yes they do help alot esp if ewe haven't packed the hub adequately the spring loaded system will fill the voids & only sart moving the bearing mates plate outwards once the hub is full.

There's 2 types of bearing setups Hustler, let's call them the GOOD type and the BAD type to keep it simple

Ewe've lost me Fed dont know if it's just me or your Alsationist desease @ work

Wot has a square axle got to do with anything ?????? I'm @ a loss & assuming you're referencing it to a round axle

Fed thre's only wun type of bearing setup ewe need to concern yourself with

Doing the job correctly

Use High Temp Grease or better still pay the extra & go with Synthetic grease
Use Marine seals not the crappy plain rubber wuns
Pack Bearings properly B4 inserting them, a dry bearing will give ewe grief
Show us the money & invest in bearing mates

[oz man]

Keeping Trailer Wheel Bearings Properly Maintained

It's a subject as old as trailering itself, but keeping wheel bearings properly greased and maintained is a ritual many still forget to perform. The evidence of that is clear. It's still easy to catch a very familiar sight on the side of any highway on a hot summer day; a family sitting dejectedly on the grassy roadside, perhaps eating a picnic lunch, while Dad goes off to find a marine service dealer who can replace the trailer's damaged wheel bearings. While servicing wheel bearings isn't glamorous or sexy, it sure can save a lot of lost time and certainly prevents the loss of valuable vacation time — something no one can afford to lose.


Today's wheel bearing assemblies are no different than those of twenty, thirty or even fifty years ago. They still use grease as a lubricant and coolant, they still employ caged rollers that roll on a pressed-in race, and they still use a rubber-lipped seal to keep grease in and water out. What's changed is the grease used to lube them; today's synthetic greases, if used, can offer longer bearing life and a more forgiving environment against roller failure. In addition, there are more methods of protecting and greasing the bearings without actually changing the grease than ever before. While "Bearing Buddy" protectors have been available for many years now, they've since been improved, and have met many forms of competition. In addition, new forms of lubrication have been introduced in recent years; oil bath systems offered by several manufacturers have become more popular.

While greasing the bearings through an outside fitting can keep the water and potential corrosion at bay for a while, the most effective way to ensure that the bearings are full of fresh lubricant is to change the grease on a regular schedule, just like your Dad did before you. The only advantages that protectors like Bearing Buddies gives to today's trailer boaters are reduced grease change intervals and the ability to "top off" the grease between changes. Regardless, the grease should be changed at least once per season (more often if you trailer long distances or trailer frequently).

SIMPLE TOOLS

If you've never changed wheel bearing grease before, be prepared for a messy afternoon. Time-wise, that's about all it will take you, even for first-timers; it's an easy job. Tools needed are few and simple. You'll need pliers (side-cutting pliers work well when removing stubborn cotter pins), a lug wrench to fit the lug nuts on your trailer, a jack, jack stand, a hammer, large flat-bladed screwdriver, and a short (six inch) length of scrap 2x4. Of course, a grease gun with zerk end fitting will be needed if your wheels have bearing protectors installed (such as part number 1980S, 1781S,2047). A large pair of pliers (water-pump pliers or Channel Locks as they're sometimes called) may be needed if the large nut holding the hub on has been tightened too much.
If they don't have them now, this is the time to fit your wheel hubs with bearing protectors. Available from just about any trailer dealer, hitch installer or auto parts store, bearing protectors have become commonplace — RedTrailers.Com stocks the most popular sizes. Most common among boat trailers are the 1.781" and 1.980" inner-diameter sizes, but if you're in doubt, take your dust cap along with you to match up the inner diameter (the part that fits into the bore of the wheel hub). A pair of bearing protector covers will only add a few bucks to the tab, and protect your wheels from any excess grease that may escape the hubs at highway speeds.

While you're shopping, pick up a tub of wheel bearing grease. For those on a budget, regular mineral-based grease will work fine, but for the ultimate protection at slightly higher cost, synthetic grease will last longer in the hub and tolerate water ingestion better. Lastly, though it's not needed, a bearing packer will make filling the bearings with grease a much easier job — and much easier to clean up. Without one, you'll have to pack the bearings by hand. This simple tool allows you to capture a wheel bearing between its two plastic discs and pack it with grease using a grease gun. That's a lot neater and quicker than filling your palm with a blob of grease and wiping it into the bearing cage. Bearing packers can be purchased at any auto parts store, Sears, or big-box home centers for less than $20. It's a good investment, and besides — what fun would the job be if you didn't get to buy a new tool for your collection?

JACK IT UP

You'll have to jack up the trailer's axle, one side at a time, to service the wheel bearings. A floor jack is best but if you don't have one, the bottle jack from your truck will do fine. A jack stand is also needed to secure the trailer in the raised position and ensure that it won't come crashing down on you in the middle of the job.

Before raising the trailer, loosen the lug nuts. Jack the trailer up until the wheel can spin freely. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel, exposing the hub assembly. Check the back side of the hub, wheel and tire for grease spatters. If you see grease, the rear seal has failed and will need replacement.

You can now remove the hub. The dust cap or bearing protector must come off first. A dust cap has a small lip that can be pried off by carefully using a flat bladed screwdriver; lightly tap the screwdriver blade under the lip with the hammer, rotating the hub as you pry off the cap. Bearing protectors have no lip to pry under, so you'll have to (again, carefully) tap the outer diameter of the protector as you rotate the hub. If you use a plastic mallet instead of a hammer, you won't mar or dent the protector.

After you remove the protector/cap, rotate the hub slowly as you listen closely for irregular noises. You should hear nothing as the hub spins; if you hear grinding, scratching or rattling noises, of if the hub moves excessively on the axle shaft, you probably have bearing problems. A cotter pin keeps the castle nut from loosening; bend it out straight and remove it with pliers. If it's been bent too many times, replace it with a new one. Remove the castle nut and washer, then remove the outer bearing. Keep plenty of rags handy to catch loose globs of grease that may fall out as you remove the hub assembly from the axle.

CLEAN AND INSPECT

A parts washer makes this step much easier, but if you don't have one, you can improvise with an old wash pan and a half-gallon of gasoline or parts cleaning fluid. Remove as much loose grease as possible from the outer bearing, hub, and inner bearing. If the rear seal is damaged, or if you detect problems with the inner bearing, pry out the seal with the flat screwdriver and discard it. Remove the inner bearing. Often, if the grease is still in decent condition and you can inspect the inner bearing by feel and with a flashlight, you might be able to get away with cleaning it and regreasing it without removing it (and the seal). You can leave it in place along with the rear seal; just be sure to wash out all the old grease and dirt using the solvent. However, I'd recommend replacing the seal and cleaning/regreasing the inner bearing every time.

Wash the parts as thoroughly as possible in the solvent (don't forget the nut, washer and cotter pin, as well as the dust cap/bearing protector). If possible, blow-dry them with compressed air to remove all remnants of old grease, dirt and washing fluid. NOTE: BE CAREFUL and DO NOT spin the bearings at high speed with compressed air! Spinning a bearing at high RPM with no lubricant can cause it to literally EXPLODE in your hand, causing severe injury. DON'T DO IT!

After cleaning and drying, inspect all the parts closely. If the roller bearings appear pitted, scored, galled or rusted, you must replace them. Take them to a trailer dealer for an expert opinion, if you're in doubt; replacing them with new ones now is far easier than when you're stuck on the roadside. If you replace them, replace the bearing races as well; these are press-fitted into the hub. They can be removed with a hammer and screwdriver, but have the dealer do it while you're there buying the new bearings; it's easier for him to do it with a shop press, and you won't risk damaging the hub with the hammer and screwdriver.

PUT IT BACK TOGETHER

Packing the bearings with grease goes quickly with the bearing packer. Place the bearing on the bottom cup, screw the top cup down snugly over the bearing, attach a grease gun, and pump grease into the bearing until it just begins to flow out the sides of the rollers. If you elect to do it by hand, place a gumball-sized dollop of grease in the middle of your palm, and taking the bearing in your other hand, firmly wipe the edge of the bearing through the grease. Do this repeatedly until grease begins to appear on the other side of the bearing. Rotate the bearing as you go, ensuring that it's filled completely around. This is why the bearing packer is highly recommended; it ensures a fully-greased bearing, makes the job easier and cleaner, and the cost is low compared to the value the tool gives. Set both bearings aside on a clean dry cloth.

If you removed the inner bearing and seal, now is the time to re-install them. Check one more time to ensure that the inner bore of the hub is completely clean and dry. Place the greased inner bearing into the hub, seating it in the race securely (the grease will hold it there). Now, replace the rear seal. Clean the hub bore where it seats with solvent, making sure there's no grease, old sealant or dirt there. Select a short socket that matches the seal's outer diameter to use when pressing it into the hub bore. Coat the outer edge of the seal with liquid sealant, and gently tap it into the hub with a rubber mallet, using the socket as an installing tool. Seat the seal flush with the end of the hub bore; don't tap it any deeper.

Clean the axle shaft and inspect it for damage. If there's deep scoring, pitting or rust where the bearings ride, it may be time for a new axle stub. This can be an involved job, best left to a good trailer mechanic. If the area where the seal rides is scored or pitted, you can easily solve the grease leakage problem this causes by fitting the axle with a Spindle Seal, which is a stainless steel seal and O-ring kit that fits over the inside of the axle stub, forming a smooth sealing surface for the hub seal to ride on. Spindle Seals are manufactured by Bearing Buddy, and are available at most marine and trailer dealers.

Coating the axle shaft with grease before installing the hub will help ensure that enough grease is in the hub before it turns its first revolution. Put a healthy dollop of grease inside the hub, then slide it on the axle shaft. Next, install the outer bearing, making sure it's seated in its race. The outer washer fits in next, then the castle nut. Tighten the nut down as you spin the hub, ensuring that you don't tighten it so far that it slows the hub or stops it from turning. Grasp the hub's outer diameter and try to move it back and forth; if you can, the nut is not tight enough. Tighten the nut to the point that it slows the hub from turning, then back off a quarter turn and check for side-to-side movement again. If you try this step a few times, you'll get a good feel for how tight the nut should be. It can be tricky; too tight and the bearings will wear prematurely, too loose and the wheel will wobble. After you've found that "sweet spot," turn the nut slightly to expose the cotter pin hole and insert the cotter pin; bend the ends out and around the nut. Make sure the ends don't get in the way when you install the dust cap or bearing protector.

FINISHING THE JOB

Clean the hub bore using solvent and a clean rag, then using the short length of 2x4 to avoid damaging the bearing protector, tap the protector into the hub with a hammer. Make sure it seats fully; you'll notice a different tone in the sound of the hammer blows when it does. Using the grease gun, pump grease into the bearing protector as you spin the hub to distribute the grease inside. Here's another tricky part; don't over fill the hub, or you'll blow grease right out the back of the rear seal. Some bearing protectors have an indicator that tells you when the hub is full. Without that indicator, watch the spring inside the protector carefully as you fill; when it fully compresses, stop pumping grease. Wipe any excess away, re-install the wheel and tire, and you're done — with that wheel. Now you can repeat the process for the other wheels on your trailer.

WHAT'S INVOLVED?

Costs and time spent are minimal for this job. Grease is cheap and readily available. A grease gun is a good investment, and should be taken with you on road trips in case of bearing failure or just a simple top-off. Grease guns are available for less than $20 in most home centers and hardware outlets. As mentioned, the bearing packer is a worthwhile tool to own for less than $20. Time involved is approximately one hour per wheel, so for a dual-axle trailer, expect to spend the afternoon with greasy hands. In all, this is a job every trailer towing enthusiast should be familiar with. If you end up needing new bearings and seals, these cost less than $25 for two sets (enough to do a single axle trailer). Just be sure to take the old ones with you to the auto parts store so the counter man can match them to a new set.

[Fed]

That's a pretty good write up Ozman but be aware that's a description of the old moving seal setup.
It really gets down to what Jumpy said...
Doing the job correctly and using all the right bits & pieces.
Water getting in is the real killer, my car has done over 300,000 Kms and I bet the wheel bearing are original and have never been greased since new.

[Fed]

Well I greased my wheel bearings today and I'm happy to report that when I checked them before greasing they were both perfect.

Got me thinking about the comments of heat, grease expansion, seal blowouts, sucking water & getting softened bearings etc, this is for you Nimrod so listen up...

Whenever I feel my bearings which I often do they only ever get warm with no discomfort holding the hub by hand even after coming off the freeway.
I'd estimate they probably reach about 50 Centigrade and nowhere near as hot as the paint on the car on a sunny day.

Not wanting to start a shit fight Frank but just relating my personal experiences, I think anyone who has bearing problems just isn't doing a proper job in the first place.

Oh, and flat rollers after standing for 6 Months, come on now.

[Spudly]

Whenever I feel my bearings which I often do they only ever get warm with no discomfort holding the hub by hand even after coming off the freeway.
I'd estimate they probably reach about 50 Centigrade and nowhere near as hot as the paint on the car on a sunny day.

Trust me mate, they get hot... Why dont ya go for a drive and pull one out when ya get home. The Hub wont be hot because its not taking any of the friction, the bearings do that. Its heat transfer aint to much of an issue because the outside of the hub is free to air and being cooled as you drive.

Oh, and flat rollers after standing for 6 Months, come on now.

The problem here is that the bearings are sitting in one point for a long period and the can press slight dents into the race.. they will appear as shaded lines on the race.. Once ya start turning the bearings at high speed again it doesnt take long for things to go wrong..

[Fed]

Well I disagree Rumpus.

[Jumpus GooDarus]

Trust me mate, they get hot... Why dont ya go for a drive and pull one out when ya get home. The Hub wont be hot because its not taking any of the friction, the bearings do that. Its heat transfer aint to much of an issue because the outside of the hub is free to air and being cooled as you drive.

Fed I have to Agree with Spud on this wun

The problem here is that the bearings are sitting in one point for a long period and the can press slight dents into the race.. they will appear as shaded lines on the race.. Once ya start turning the bearings at high speed again it doesnt take long for things to go wrong..

Spud I have to agree with Mr Shinny Head on this wun

Unless ewe or Frank care to explain how a cylindrical object such as the rollers in a bearing can indent a case hardened cone belonging to that very same bearing

Wait there's more

both ewe & Frank agree this can happen whilst trailer is sitting there idle

Now if ewes had said a tyre developes a flat spot resting on the same point of impact for a long period of time then I would agree with ewes but not a bearing

[Fed]

I do agree they're hotter on the inside but all the stuff about pressure popping seals, sucking water, softening bearings and bearing flat spots after 6 months no way.

Do you wait at the ramp for your bearings to cool down?

[poly]

I do agree they're hotter on the inside but all the stuff about pressure popping seals, sucking water, softening bearings and bearing flat spots after 6 months no way.

Do you wait at the ramp for your bearings to cool down?

Fed not taking a shot at you, but my tow is 137k minimum from home to the coast, if i do not have the bearings adjusted wright they will suck water and that is a fact, now if you think i may be a bit head up about this you will be right as I have had them fail on the way back home.

[Spudly]

Unless ewe or Frank care to explain how a cylindrical object such as the rollers in a bearing can indent a case hardened cone belonging to that very same bearing

Only takes a slight mark or flat spot on the roller or the race for pitting and wear to start. The mark or wear on the race, may not be caused by weight actually pressing a dent into it, but is caused by moisture that is in the bearing and the 2 metal surfaces sitting together.

Many manufacturers of cars actually warn about this in their manuals.. If they thinks its a problem then its obviously stemed from somewhere...

[Jumpus GooDarus]

Only takes a slight mark or flat spot on the roller or the race for pitting and wear to start. The mark or wear on the race, may not be caused by weight actually pressing a dent into it, but is caused by moisture that is in the bearing and the 2 metal surfaces sitting together.

That's not wot the initial claim was here
The claim was that a flat spot can arise when a trailer was eft sitting unused for a long period of time & ewe agreed with that

Many manufacturers of cars actually warn about this in their manuals.. If they thinks its a problem then its obviously stemed from somewhere...

Dont read owners manuals as they are pretty useless, none the less couldn't see sum ting like that that printed in them tis a bit technical for your average joe blo manuals generally give ewe could be's & allways tell ewe t go to a repairer

[Fed]

Poly, if your bearings are too tight they will overheat wear quickly.If they're too loose they will wear quickly and also wear the seal prematurely because the hub wobble.
Both of these bad adjustments won't be helped by waiting at the ramp for them to cool for an hour, if the seal is shot then water will get in, hot or cold.