testing edit button all is ok.

This post has been edited by Test: Aug 31 2007, 01:52 PM

I think that you are not getting ahead going the 4st 40 for the reasons i have said, performace wise the 4st 40 will give No benifits over your 30, however you will have more stealth. Put a leccy on it instead!?

Or get the 40hp 2 stroke for more performance. and a Leccy!

This post has been edited by Rum Dust N Ruckus: Sep 1 2007, 06:40 PM

Has very little to do with it Fed esp on a toy motor like the one poly is looking @ getting

Only advantage you would get out of a stainless prop on a motor that size will be wear & tear the stainless one will outlast the alloy one

Down side to having a stainless opposed to a Alloy prop is the stainless wont snap the blade as easy as an Alloy prop if you hit something & I'd rather replace a prop than a gearbox any day of the week if thiis happened

Has very little to do with what Jumpy?
Did you even read the question?

Bloody oath I read the Question

Smelly quoted this



Then you went on to say that it's due to the strength of S/S which dosen't cause the motor to cavitate as much then I pointed out material contruction has nothing to do with it.

Exept in your case cause you use a wooden prop which would tend to float alot more thus causing cavitation

The question.



The answer.


I made the important part bold to help you understand it mate.

Nothing to do with it Fed !

Go out & have a good look @ new props not used oneswhere the stainless has been worn down or had the sh*t polished out of it thats what you've seen

AS a matter of fact you've got more chance of a stainless prop distorting under load than a Alloy the Alloy prop would be more likely to snap

I think you will find that stainless ones are generally more shiny!!

therefire faster, paint a alloy prop red and see what happens!

strike me lucky rum now i am confused, :huh: i think i will take up the grog again

Geez the bickering 'round here between a certain 2 is ummmmmmmmmmmm

















BLOODY GREAT i love it!!!!


BTW thanx for BOTH answers

SMELLY

'there's always 3 sides to a story.My side,your side and the TRUTH '

Just been wondring, do you think if there was humidity or was raining that the prop would spin faster? would it have more power or would it cause water to get in the fuel tank? Mayb the power came from th fuel station?

Changing props is usually to get a differant pitch or prop style, and they are generally stainless cause its what sells and what people want when paying big dollars for a prop, especially with racing/skiing boats and they want it to last longer.

You want a race prop you want the shiny one, I like shiny things, like spoons!

Also agree that correct trim of the motor and correct HP will give the correct ride without need for any additions.

Fed what makes you think the composition of metals in props has changed in the past 30 years ???

Here's a good example aeroplanes used to use wooden props back in the old days & still used to fly didn't they ??

Material composition of props has no bearing on it's performance what governs that is the way it's cupped or the pitch

Rum you ninkompoopy red paint is no good all that will do is attract BULL sh*t you need to paint GT stripes to go faster

Everyone (except Jumpy) should visit the Mercury Propeller site there's some very good info available there.
http://sites.mercurymarine.com/portal/page...;_schema=PORTAL


But they fly better now because newer materials allow them to use more efficient designs.


Nowdays there's not a great deal of difference between SS & Alloy as the alloy materials they are using are getting better all the time.
Interestingly Mercury are claiming that X7 alloy is even better than SS so any differences would have to be considered marginal at best.

I think for a normal fishing boat it now makes very little difference and for any ventilation problems other solutions like lowering the motor would achieve a better result.

bugger this i am buying the 4stroke i will polish the prop till it shines like silver then paint it red and see how it go's that way i should be able to raise the motor two holes
now that i have had some fun, it is the quietness of the 4stroke that appeals to me + the fact that i intend to do a lot of trolling over the summer months.
Yamaha 2 strokes run at 50 to one oil injection which will oil up the plugs at low revs, that is not acceptable to me, so that is the main reason for the 4 stroke second to that is the resale will be enhanced believe it or not.
a Jarvis water snake will be fitted at some point when i start the build i shall post pitchers of just how ease it is to work on a poly.

Fed in your last remark you've come right around back to what I initially pointed out.

No good even bothering to visit links like the one you posted simply because they would be refering to performance race motors irrellevant to how a fisherman would drive his boat.

Those guys are full on & may carry up to 1/2 doz different props & not choose one till just b4 the run

Do you have a GPS Poly, any chance of getting some speed readings before you change the motor to compare against the new one?

RDnR, you may want to reconsider your ideas on power & torque, here's a handy little program for you to play with.
http://www.comcen.com.au/~fed/convert.zip
I keep it in my quicklaunch bar right beside my spellchecker.

no GPS Fed i think it dose about 28 or 30 k's maybe

Fed they are not My Ideas, they are facts on how horsepower and tourqe are related.

Even in your nice little program you cannot compare torque to horsepower.....